4 Barrel

Adding a 4 Barrel Carb...
When the power just isn't enough...then it's time to get rid of the anemic 2 Barrel Carb. I first installed a Carter 500 cfm but it was not enough, so I switched to a 625 cfm and that did the trick.

DISCLAIMER: use of this information is at your own risk. Mascot Graphics takes no responsibility for interpretation of this information, and it is to be used as a guide, not an instruction manual. All modifications were done knowing the risk.

--Back--

4 BARREL

--Lokar--

Weiand 7503 Stealth Manifold

I installed a new Weiand Intake and Lokar Cables and decided to post some information about them here. The installation went extremely well and was very easy to do. The hardest part of the intake install was finding all the right fittings and parts, but the install was done in about three hours altogether. The cables were very easy to do, I started at about 4:30 in the afternoon and had both the throttle and transmission kickdown cables installed in just about two hours. That's pretty good, considering the fact that I have never seen these installed on a Mopar before.

I hope the information below helps you out, the manifold and cables were acquired through Summit Racing and I have listed the Summit part numbers below in case you are interested in ordering them for your car. I have also listed the information for the various adapters and fittings I needed, which I bought at NAPA. Please keep in mind that these are for a 65 Poly 318, The earlier Poly motors may have used different sensors than what I used.

I also used this opportunity to change belts, hoses and sensors. Here is a list of the items I bought (some are a no brainer, but I'll still list them so that perhaps you won't forget the "simple" ones):

1. Allen Head Bolt Kit	6. Radiator Hoses	11. Temperature Sender	16. Manifold Gaskets
2. Coolant	7. Heater Hose	12. Sender Adapter	17. RTV Sealant
3. Thermostat	8. By-pass Hose	13. Oil Press Sender	18. Gasket Compound
4. Bypass Hose Fitting	9. Breather Hose	14. Carb Plug	19. Loctite (red)
5. Heater Hose Fitting	10. Vacuum Hose	15. Manifold Plug	20. Hose clamps

The Parts...

Weiand Intake	WND-7503	Make sure you get Allen Head bolts with washers, the stock bolts will not fit properly.
Bypass Fitting	660-1475	The old fitting from the 2 barrel manifold wouldn't fit, this was necessary.
Heater Fitting	C-25487	The old fitting from the 2 barrel manifold wouldn't fit, this was necessary.
Oil Sender	OP6282	Good time to replace it, one of the "why not" expenses.
Temp Sender	TS6178	Good time to replace it, one of the "why not" expenses.
Sender Adapter	3220 X 4 X 2	This is needed for the 65...the hole is too large for the temp sender.
Throttle Cable	LOK-TC-1000-HT36	Two different lengths for the throttle cable are available, 24" & 36". (24 is long enough)
Kickdown Cable	LOK-KD-2727HT	This cable is specifically for the 727 Trans, but a 904 is also available.
Cable Bracket	LOK-SRK-4000	Not absolutely necessary, but very much worth it and eases installation
Manifold Plug	um....	There is a tapered, threaded hole inside the water outlet, you'll need a plug for this.

The Install...

	Here it is...the only four barrel manifold I could find that was brand new, and this is pretty much how it comes...no fittings, bolts or gaskets. Summit does have the gaskets, I don't have the number off hand though.		You can see here the problem I had with the stock bolts. They all went in okay except for this one, it was so close to the side that I couldn't get a socket on it and the bolt couldn't be tightened. The Allen head bolts are perfect for this and look great!
	Here you can see the adapter for the temperature sender. I used Teflon tape on all fittings on the manifold		Here you can see the Vacuum Hose for the Brake Booster. Non-Power Brake cars will only have a vacuum hose for the inside controls, and it fits the new manifold, although in an odd place.
	Here's a look at the gas pedal and how the stock cable is connected. I chose to remove the pedal as it was easier to swap cables that way.		I removed the lower floor vent so that I could get to the bolts on the gas pedal and have some room to install it.
	This is how the stock cable looks when removed. There is a C-clip that holds it to the bracket, and a cotter pin that attaches the cable.		I didn't take a picture of the cable before putting it in, but you can see here that I reversed the cone shaped nut to attach it. I used a standard nut on the inside, it allowed the pedal to rest lower, the cone nut is a bit long.
	The Kick-Down Cable is pulled from the bottom of the carb linkage. Make sure you don't get a "Mopar" Carburetor...it doesn't have the lower extension. There is a bracket that mounts to the back of the trans and the cable loops around from behind.		All in all...it makes for a pretty decent looking motor (well, I did paint and detail a few items when I was putting this together!)